Alekšupīte, the River That Runs Along the Houses

The Hidden River · 2 min read

Alekšupīte, the River That Runs Along the Houses

A river narrow enough to step across, running tight against the back walls of the old town.

The Venta gets the attention, but the small river is the one people photograph. The Alekšupīte runs straight through the centre of Kuldīga, and for one stretch it flows hard against the walls of the buildings themselves. No bank, no railing, just water and then masonry. People call it the Venice of Latvia, which is pushing it a bit, but the effect really is odd and worth a look.

No bank, no railing. The Alekšupīte runs straight against the back walls, here beside the district council.
No bank, no railing. The Alekšupīte runs straight against the back walls, here beside the district council.

One town, the widest waterfall in Europe and the tallest in Latvia, and neither of them is big.

It holds a record too. The waterfall on the Alekšupīte is 4.2 metres high, which makes it the tallest in Latvia. Which is funny, because the widest waterfall in Europe is a few streets away. Same town, both records, and neither of them is big.

The same stretch from the road. You cross it without noticing unless you look down.
The same stretch from the road. You cross it without noticing unless you look down.

The river is easy to miss if you only walk the main streets, because for much of its course it’s below eye level or behind buildings. Follow it on foot rather than looking for a viewpoint. It appears and disappears between houses, under small bridges, and along the backs of gardens.

The bridge by St Catherine’s church. Follow the water on foot and it surfaces the whole way through town.
The bridge by St Catherine’s church. Follow the water on foot and it surfaces the whole way through town.

It’s a short detour from anywhere in the centre, and it works well as the second half of a walk that starts at the waterfall.

Further along, where it runs between the timber houses with a hand's width to spare.
Further along, where it runs between the timber houses with a hand's width to spare.

Photographs

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